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Warsaw In Your Pocket
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WARSAW June - July 2011
Lazienki The park and palace in the heart of Warsaw
Culture first Why Warsaw wants to be European Capital of Culture 2016
N°63 Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) UK - £5 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 warsaw.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1641-5264
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Contents Arrival & Transport
Culture & Events
Where to stay
During the lifetime of this guide, the decision on which cities will be awarded the title European Capital of Culture 2016 will be made. One of the candidate cities is Warsaw, and while we as a guidebook covering different cities in Poland can’t really have a preference, we can say that we like Warsaw’s pitch. Find out what that is on page 12.
Sightseeing What to see
Palace of Culture
Directory Shopping Directory
Maps & Index Summers in Warsaw can be blisteringly hot and while on first impressions it might look like a city of concrete on top of concrete, it most certainly is not. There is a collection of fine parks dotted around the central area, the most popular of which is Lazienki Park just to the south-east of the centre. Find out where Varsovians head to when the mercury starts to climb on page 8.
Warsaw In Your Pocket
City centre map City map Country map Street index Listings Index Feature Index
147 148 150 152 153 154 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
FOREWORD To arrive during the lifetime of this guide unfamiliar readers might wonder about the validity of some of the comments found on websites about the city of Warsaw. You know the ones that feed the stereotype of a soulless city, bathed in various shades of grey with little colour to brighten the decaying communist architecture you might have thought Warsaw is exclusively made up of. And those about it being nothing more than a business destination – the kind people in suits carrying Samsonites jet into, have a meeting and then jet straight out of again. While there is no smoke without fire as our old granny used to say, the https://flexumgel.club/educational/rfactor-2-lite-crack.php covered by this guide are a perfect time to visit to explode those myths. Actually explode might be the wrong word to use in any description of Warsaw bearing in mind that the retreating Nazis did there upmost to do exactly that to anything of beauty this city had left in 1944/5. A beautiful city was systematically dynamited and as if that wasn’t bad enough Soviet architects then used the blank canvas to run riot with some of the more unattractive building projects you’ll ever have the chance to set your eyes on. But all of the above, while contributing generously to the city’s reputation abroad are not the whole story. For one the Nazis did not manage to destroy everything and some of the stuff the socialist architects came up with has its own, fairly unconventional, beauty. And the one thing neither could do was destroy the spirit of this incredible city and its people – the fact that you are able to stand here today in one of the continent’s most vibrant cities is testimony to that. So in this guide, covering a period when the city winds down for its (prolonged) annual summer holiday, we highlight some of the more attractive parts of the city which include surviving, renovated or completely re-built historical buildings and their surrounding parklands. Check out the oasis which is Lazienki on page 8 or the Wilanow Palace on page 120. And take time out from sitting in one of the city’s many summer gardens to visit some of the city’s ever-expanding cultural offering – you’ll find the state-of-the-art Chopin Museum on page 118, the Copernicus Science Centre (which our children rated higher than London’s Science Museum) on page 108 or take in a concert from our events section on page 22. Whatever you decide to do, enjoy it and see if you can’t help explode some of those myths yourself.
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ŁAZIENKI stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of the pretty students from the nearby art college who set up their easel and paints early doors and stay until the guards kick them out at sunset. Indeed, given such cracking scenery it is tempting to find a bench and do the same. Note that the glasshouses are open to the public only at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance one hour before closing. Garden admission 6/3zł, Glasshouse/Garden admission 8/4zł.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik Chopina i Świątynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.
Łazienki Park (Park Łazienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie. pl. The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Water. The palace was riginally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski in 1772, and converted into a private residence (and taking the name Palace on the Water). It was as this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and objectdock 2.1 full crackle, summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, there is much to see in Łazienki and to make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here. The park is also a major Chopin venue: every summer a series called Chopin Concerts in the Park take place here, around the huge Chopin Monument. Concerts are usually held on Sundays at 12pm and 4pm: check our Culture & Events section for full details. One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens… Q Open from dawn till dusk. Admission free. Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny) G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod. uw.edu.pl. You should begin your day at Łazienki by first visiting the superb Botanical Gardens, the entrance of which is on Al. Ujazdowskie, just south of Plac Na Rozdrożu. Part of the University of Warsaw the gardens have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the Warsaw In Your Pocket
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer, impressive concerts take place around the statue almost every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few meters from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public) an 1820s replica Greek Temple, built entirely in wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings around here, such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public.
Getting there Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100 metres along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Water. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try to circumnavigate the park instead. While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or two-days combined ticket which offers single-access to all of the park’s palaces and museums. A one-day ticket costs 25/15zł, two-days tickets cost 30/17zł.
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ŁAZIENKI Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska 56, tel. (+48) 22 695 19 78. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president (now Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo opportunities, you should look at it face on from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns. White House & Orangery (Biały Dom i Oranżeria) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www. lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for the king’s sisters, and now open to the public, displaying a fine collection of period furniture and decorations. A few steps away is the impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue for Warsaw’s wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum of sculpture. From here head back past the White House, resist the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the Water and instead head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed by Józef Orłowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G-4. Crossing the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble the amphitheatre at Herculaneum, the theatre hosts productions throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas which ferry up and down the lake. A short trip costs 7/5zł per person, and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however.
Palace on the Water (Pałac na Wodzie) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Water is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław
Warsaw In Your Pocket
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved by a striking central portico, while on the southern façade deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context. To get the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of the guided tours though you may have to try to join a group or wait until a group of people have formed.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 till dusk. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł. Thu free. Guides 90zł per group up to 20 people.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum Łowiectwa i Jeździectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl. North of the Palace on the Water the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From July open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free. Y
Myślewicki Palace (Pałac Myślewicki) H-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete with original murals, furniture and art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/ CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext.125, www.csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Water and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries and score years before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and the café, Qchnia Artystyczna, which has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.
WARSAW CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2016 residents use the Palace of Culture and shopping centres as orientation points for navigation. However, in five years new museums and art in public spaces are expected to become the new orientation points for tourists and residents.
The new Sinfonia Varsovia concert hall will regenerate Praga Południe As we went to press, Warsaw was one of 5 cities which remained in the running to be named European Capital of Culture 2016. Were Warsaw to be awarded this title it would represent an amazing turnaround from the time that In Your Pocket arrived in Poland in 1999. In the early days of the guide we noted a posting on the discussion board of a major international publisher’s from a traveller asking what he should do once he arrived in Warsaw. A wit, who clearly knew the city, suggested taking a taxi from the airport to Warsaw Central station and buying a ticket to Krakow. Intrigued with Warsaw’s application and what it planned to present to visitors in 2016, we asked Peter Richards, who is part of the promotional team for the European Capital of Culture 2016 application, to tell us about Warsaw’s plans for developing ‘culture’ in the next few years. The following is his response. For more than a decade, Warsaw has been investing in hard infrastructure. New bridges, bike lanes, trams, an airport and a new metro line all make the city more accessible, alleviating congestion and allowing citizens better mobility. However the time has come to invest in cultural infrastructure. Recognized as a business and financial centre, Warsaw now wants to improve the leisure possibilities for tourists and residents. Warsaw’s cultural scene is gaining momentum and that momentum has been catalyzed by the city’s application to be awarded the European Capital of Culture 2016 title. City officials decided to apply for the European Capital of Culture 2016 title as a way to raise culture’s position within government and to make culture more accessible for residents. The process of applying for the Capital of Culture title has forged many new relationships and the process is allowing culture to take a leading role in community building, education and improving the “livability” of the city. Museums are the latest addition to the city’s cultural landscape, as December saw the opening of the Copernicus Science Centre on the Vistula riverbank. The Copernicus Centre marked a new era of activity on the previously undeveloped riverbank. Varsovians and tourists now have a reason to go to the river and the museum will attract additional businesses, restaurants and cultural activities. Three additional museums are planned by 2016: The Museum of the History of Polish Jews (now under construction), the Museum of Modern Art (to be built adjacent to the Palace of Culture) and Sinfonia Varsovia (Krzysztof Penderecki’s Warsaw orchestra finally gets its own concert hall in Praga Południe). Locating cultural points can be a challenge as the city is difficult to navigate. Warsaw lacks good signage and it is not very “user friendly”. Museums, restaurants, theatres and cultural events are dispersed across the city. Many are unmarked and difficult to find as the city has no defined centre and many activities occur in back streets, courtyards and basements of buildings. One of the legacies of being awarded the European Capital of Culture 2016 title will be the creation of a new map for Warsaw. Currently tourists and
Warsaw In Your Pocket
The city is also witnessing the emergence of neighbourhood identity. Previously there was little reason to stray beyond the city centre and visit Warsaw’s various districts as they lacked any particular cohesion. However with the rise of café culture in Warsaw, neighbourhoods now have a focal point around which dialogue can occur. The cafés conduct talks, screen films and act as proactive spokespeople for their communities. The districts of Powiśle, Saska Kępa and Praga are the most recent to become active. Powiśle is the thin strip of land that runs along the river (below the Royal Walk). Its green, laid back, coffee and cultureoriented, small unique cafés rub shoulders with cultural giants: Copernicus Centre, Chopin Museum and University Library. On the other side of the river, opposite Old Town, is the pre-war district of Praga. Traditionally known as a working class district, Praga is rapidly becoming an alternative artistic district known for its bars, restaurants and performance spaces located in 19th century red brick factories and tenement buildings. Saska Kępa known for its 1920’s modernist architecture is a thriving restaurant district with child-friendly cafés. Even districts farther from the centre like Bródno are changing, with the creation of the Bródno Sculpture Park featuring a unique collection of pieces from contemporary artists, including Warsaw local Paweł Althamer and Danish artist Olafur Eliasson. Summer is one of the best periods for the city as evening films are shown in Parks Saski, Skaryszewski and Pole Mokotowskie, outdoor Chopin recitals are held every Sunday morning in Łazienki Park and free classical music recitals occur every Saturday in July and August at the site of the future Sinfonia Varsovia concert hall on Grochowska 272. Art in public space is a major theme of the Capital of Culture application. This summer will see several new events occurring in public spaces. On June 4th the Wyłącz System (Disconnect the System) event occurs where inaccessible spaces around the city are opened up for concerts and cultural happenings (e.g. parking garages, water treatment plants, etc). From July 2nd until the end of August, the unused fountain at Plac Na Rozdrożu will become occupied by a wooden structure housing artists, a lounge and cafe in an action called UFO (Unexpected Fountain Occupation). The events are hoping to draw new audiences to culture as the city recognizes that Varsovians need to move from being inactive inhabitants to active citizens who are fully engaged and empowered to partake and influence the life of the city. Winning the European Capital of Culture 2016 title will allow the city to enrich its image as a creative hub for Europe. On June 21st the jury will announce the finalist from the five shortlisted candidates.
A new cultural hub will be created on the site of a redundant fountain at Pl. Na Rozdrozu
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WARSAW EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE *districts of Warsaw
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Three useful Warsaw tips
While Warsaw is generally well linked with both the outside world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks are undergoing major regeneration work, in part to ensure smooth connections in time for the Euro 2012 football championships. Improvement work also extends to the airport, For the time being at least, travellers more used to the streamlined transpor t links of the west may find both patience and nerves severely tested.
Alina Zienowicz, pl.wikipedia.org Many of the great things we love about Warsaw are not immediately obvious, especially to the first time visitor, though we know at least one local who had also failed to notice a couple of these titbits we spotted while out researching this issue of the guide: Street Signs (1) Every single street in Warsaw is clearly marked by a number of well-positioned and highly visible street signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100 metres in Warsaw without knowing what street you are on. What’s more, the signs are almost always colour coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the south and southcentral part of the city) and brown (for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town). Street Signs (2) There’s far more helpful information on those street signs than the mere street name, however. If you look closely, the vast majority of street signs also include the numbers of the building in the block to which they are attached. What’s more, there will often be an arrow showing which way the numbers climb. As anyone looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 or such like will know, Warsaw’s central boulevards are incredibly long, and knowing which way to go makes life much, much easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the street signs (and they have been up for some time now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that they became rich and famous. (We should also point out that there are loads of older style street signs and building numbers around. Many of these are gems from the past, often in the form of lamps over old apartment blocks. One day, we hope a keen photographer with trainspotting tendencies will collect them all together in what would be our dream coffee-table book). Tram Stops at Intersections Much in the same way that arrows on Warsaw’s street signs have prevented us walking kilometres in the wrong direction, so a similarly cunning little arrow on the tram system has saved us from getting on the wrong tram hundreds of times. How? Easy: if you look closely at tram stops at intersections (where the tracks go in two or even three directions), the numbers of the trams which stop there will be grouped according to the direction they travel in. Those which go straight on will be listed under an arrow pointing straight on, those which turn right will be accompanied by an arrow pointing right, and so on. Again, hardly complicated stuff, but ingenious, and a genuine case of ‘traveller’s friend.’
Warsaw In Your Pocket
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce. Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traffic can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are standard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major hotels will of fer some form of of f-road guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially i f you have driven in western Europe. Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. Th e sp e e d l i m i t i s 5 0 k m/hr i n c i ti e s (6 0 k m/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries th at di d n’ t rati f y th e Vi en na C onventi on (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girl friend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. For roadside assistance call tel. 981. Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel). warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT By Bus
Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange in the main hall. An ATM (bankomat) operated by PEKAO bank can be found in the main hall to the left of Kasa 1. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). You can leave any bags you have at left luggage by following the signs to ‘skrytki bagażowe’ where you’ll find lockers (9zł for a large bag for 24hrs, 6zł for a small one), as well as multi-lingual explanations on how to use the contraptions. There are five payphones located in one of the side corridors though you’ll need to buy phone cards to use them. You can do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and will charge you about 20zł to the centre. Refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift. The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127, 130 or 517. At night you’ll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 2zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) has seen numerous changes in recent times, in particular the opening of Terminal 2, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older Terminal 1. Spacious and user friendly the new terminal now handles almost all incoming and most outgoing traffic. Terminal 2 is equipped with a Tourist Info stand, ATMs, exchange offices and kiosks. Jumping in a taxi is the easiest way to get into the city, and there is a taxi rank right outside Terminal 2 from which three certified companies are allowed to operate: SAWA, Ele Taxi and Super Taxi. The fare to the city centre will cost around 25-40 złoty, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks operating in the area - they’ll charge some three or four times that. Journey time takes between 15 and 30 minutes depending on traffic. Cheapskates can get bus number 175 to the city centre (which goes past the main Central Train Station) - find bus stops in front of arrivals at Terminal 1 and Terminal 2. Tickets cost 2.80zł and you no longer need an extra ticket for baggage. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding in one of the yellow electronically operated ‘kasowniks’. Buses run frequently between 04:50 and 23:00 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 05:30-22:00.
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka Chopina) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.
Warsaw Shuttle tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www. warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport transfer services at competitive prices from 69PLN per run. Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book.
June - July 2011
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Train Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. What it isn’t is easy to navigate. From alighting the train you should take one of the two facing escalators in the centre of the platform which will lead you up into one of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever
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side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. To change money look for a Kantor (money exchange) sign. Some of these are open round the clock, and there is also a Western Union office if you need emergency cash. ATMs (bankomats) can be found scattered around with several in both the passageways and the main hall (hala głowna). Due to a clean up taking place ahead of the EURO 2012 football finals, tourist info can no longer be found in the main hall and so you will have to cross over to the Palace of Culture across the road and look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 09:00 - 21:00). They can provide you with maps etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag in return for 7.10zł per day. Coded lockers are also available - 9zł for 24hrs for a big bag, 6zł for a small one. Payphones can be found in the main hall with cards available from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents. Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found outside the main entrance. The days of ordering train tickets in fractured Polish are over. Now open by the Relay shop close to the arrivals/departure board is an office run by Polish rail (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:00, the multi-lingual staff here can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
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Warsaw In Your Pocket
A huge choice of outlets selling food and drink are available though quality is questionable. Head to Coffee Heaven for a range of good coffee, hot and cold snacks which are available to take-away. McDonalds can also be found by following one of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Don’t be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre by Warsaw’s homeless population - while most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the ticket booths are to a woman mono-lingual, the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues. Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kijowska 16, tel. (+48) 22 473 72 97. Q Open 24hrs. Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D - 4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 474 57 42. Q Open 24hrs.
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also on ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (F-3). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Avis provide short-term and long-term rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. There’s over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also on Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12a. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Europcar ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (15 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marriott Hotel, Okęcie Airport), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Okopowa 47, tel. (+48) 22 636 63 93, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars from the karaoke Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website, and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Sun open on request.
Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 511 15 55, www.sixt.pl. One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel. (+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
June - July 2011
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT Public Transport
Courtesy of PKP
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. For many their stay in Warsaw will begin in one of its most brutal buildings: Central Train Station or Centralna as it is known locally. Financed by massive Western loans the monster was completed on December 5, 1975, officially opened just ten days before the 7th rally of the Polish Communist Party. Guest of honour was Soviet leader comrade Brezhnev, and a special entrance and reception room were built for him. Built in a rush, primarily by soldiers of the Polish army, the structure was erected at lightning speed so as to be completed to coincide with Brezhnev’s visit; although the site of the station was officially picked in 1946, work on the design would only begin in 1971. It was built at breakneck pace in under 1,100 days, and as such vital technical tests were never conducted - the station would be under constant renovation for the next ten years. Nonetheless, it was seen as an architectural showpiece of the time, so much so that it was awarded the groovy sounding ‘Mr Warsaw’ prize for architecture in 1975. Over the next few years coachloads of peasants were bussed in to marvel at it, and fashion shows frequently held in the main concourse. Designed by Arseniusz Romanowicz, Centralna was constructed using 12,500 tons of steel, 8,000m2 of glass and 53,000m2 of concrete. Floor beams, automatic doors and metal elements used in the façade were imported from Switzerland, escalators from Paris and Brussels and the electronic clocks from Italy. Featuring four 300 metre long underground platforms Centralna touted the first moving ramp in Poland, as well as the first escalator not produced in the USSR (it was in fact built in France to an American design). Its halcyon days also saw the construction of a now non-existent Italian marble fountain. Today it stands somewhat at odds with the gleaming 21st century super structures that surround it. Although that is set to change. Despite a large number of the local population wanting to see the whole thing dynamited off the face of Warsaw (partly because of its communist connections, partly because they considered it an eyesore) it was decided to give the old girl a facelift. The first part of that was completed in November 2010 and is now possible to compare the cleaned up south side with the still to be renovated northern side. In addition to the clean up and fixing of all public areas, the whole building will be adapted for the needs of the disabled, the passenger visual and audio communication systems will be modernised and the whole station will be made suitable for the millions of passengers who use it each year with more places to sit, a new modern food court (over the current ticket offices), adding exhibition space as well as making the whole complex part of a central transport hub. Costing 47 million zlotys and pencilled in for completion before the EURO 2012 championships, we have to say we’re delighted they decided to keep what is an astonishing legacy to Poland’s communist past. Q Open 24hrs.
Warsaw In Your Pocket
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system running from north to south. Over 1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English dotted around the city.To save yourself the hassle of working out which ticket you need or trying to buy to explain it to the lady in the kiosk, we recommend that you pick up the Warsaw Tourist Card from one of the Tourist Information points at the airport, old town or Palace of Culture. Free travel on the city’s public transport system is included in the price. A standard public transport single ticket costs 2.80zł. However, you can now also buy cheaper tickets if you are travelling off-peak - they cost 2.40zł. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 4.20zł. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods and come valid for 20, 40, 60 and 90 minutes. These are priced at 2zł, 2.80zł, 4zł and 6zł. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 9 or 14zł if travelling through both zones. Three day tickets cost 16zł, or 24zł for both zones. Finally a weekly ticket will set you back 32zł, or 48zł if you need it for the two zones. Children up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare. You can buy single tickets from the driver, though these will be rounded up to the nearest figure. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 150zł fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.
Taxis The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their services in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories. All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free
Ele Taxi tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl. Halo Taxi O’K tel. (+48) 22 196 23, www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.merctaxi.pl. MPT tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. Sawa Taxi tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, www.sawataxi. com.pl.
Super Taxi tel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl. warsaw.inyourpocket.com
BASICS Facts & Figures Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km). Longest River Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland. Population (2009) Poland - 38.135.876 Warsaw - 1.709.781 Kraków - 754.624 Łódź - 747.152 Wrocław - 632.162 Poznań - 557.264 Gdańsk - 455.581 Katowice - 309.621 Sopot - 38.821 Local time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Twin Towns Astana, Berlin, Budapest, Chicago, Düsseldorf, Grozny, Hague, Hamamatsu, Hanoi, Harbin, Kyiv, Moscow, Ile-deFrance, Istambul, Riga, Rio de Janeiro, Seoul, St. Etienne, St. Petersburg, Taipei, Tel Aviv, Toronto, Vienna, Vilnius
City Card City Card w w w.warsawcard. c o m. Th e Wa r s a w City government has a tourist card called strangely enough ‘The Warsaw Tourist’ card. As with tourist cards the world over this gives you either discounted or free entry into a majority of the city’s museums plus free travel on the city’s transit network of trams, buses and metro. Also available with this card are discounts to many galleries, hotels, recreation facilities, shops, bars and restaurants around the city. For a full list of places which accept the card please check www. warsawcard.com. The card is available from tourist information points around the city including the airport and Palace of Culture and sell for 20zł for the 24hr card. We have marked participating members with this symbol Y.
Health & Emergency In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public payphone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the call operator. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory section. If you’ve run out of money, however, then silly you. No embassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’ and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the National Library to take it out of Poland.
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularly if you are from a country which has no (or doesn’t respect) jaywalking laws, is that of a crowd of people standing obediently at a
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave.
6 20 4 10
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management, www.imgw.pl
June - July 2011
BASICS Market values Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of May 24, 2011 based on €1 = 3.95zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) McDonald's Big Mac 8.90 zł € 2.25 Snickers 1.39 zł € 0.35 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.00 zł € 5.57 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 zł € 0.71 0.5ltr beer (bar) 10.00 zł € 2.53 Loaf of white bread 2.89 zł € 0.73 20 Marlboros 11.80 zł € 2.99 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.40 zł € 1.37 Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.80 zł € 0.71
Mail & Phones Internet cafes Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center), tel. (+48) 22 620 80 32. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6zł/hour, 10zł/2 hours, 18zł/4 hours. Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marriott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyard. com/wawcy. Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access, as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame. 20zł per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. [email protected] British Council A-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 59, tel. (+48) 22 695 59 00, www.britishcouncil. org. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Free.
Post Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 33 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 120) A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Central Train Station), tel. (+48) 22 825 77 18, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Public Phones Public phones The public pay phone is making a comeback, and the state telephone company TPSA have been busy setting up glass clad booths around the centre. These come in three styles, ‘round silver’, ‘square silver’ and ‘yellow’, the last of which have the capacity to send e-mails and text messages. While some accept cash most will be card operated, for which end you’ll need to purchase a card from either a kiosk or your hotel reception. Cards are worth 15, 30 or 60 units, and are priced at 9, 15 and 24zl respectively. A call to London using pre-paid cards will cost from 2.14 to 3.21zl per minute, depending on which card you’ve chosen. An additional SMS-enabled card can be purchased for 5zł, providing the user with the capability of sending 20 text messages. For cheap international calls there are many different calling cards available, the most popular being Telegrosik (available at most kiosks, gas stations, supermarkets and post offices) and Telerabat (available at Kolporter kiosks and the post office).
Warsaw In Your Pocket
crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy, and they come divided into 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign screaming ‘kantor’ and you will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM, although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sights - the rates in these aren’t designed to favour the tourist. The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly halved, while you will be getting 25-40% less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said that Poland, if not Warsaw, remains comparatively cheap to mainstream Western Europe.
Religion For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Safety In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The brevity and dexterity of Warsaw’s criminal community has led to a spate of thefts from unattended coats. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting Warsaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind
BASICS National Holidays
June 12, 2011 Pentecost Sunday June 23, 2011 Corpus Christi August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also Polish Army Day November 1 All Saints’ Day November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) December 25 First Day of Christmas December 26 Second Day of Christmas January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Three Kings April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday April 9, 2012 Easter Monday May 1 Labour Day May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 12 19191) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Toilets Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51. Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 22/24.
Water Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the quality of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recommend that you use bottled water which is widely available and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are Żywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Nałęczowianka.
Quick Currency Convertor PLN 1 zł 2 zł 3 zł 4 zł 5 zł 6 zł 7 zł 8 zł 9 zł 10 zł 20 zł 50 zł 100 zł 150 zł 200 zł 250 zł 1 000 zł
US$ 2.80zł = $1 $0.36 $0.71 $1.07 $1.43 $1.79 $2.14 $2.50 $2.86 $3.21 $3.57 $7.14 $17.86 $35.71 $53.57 $71.43 $89.29 $357.14
Euro 3.94zł = €1 € 0.25 € 0.51 € 0.76 € 1.02 € 1.27 € 1.52 € 1.78 € 2.03 € 2.28 € 2.54 € 5.08 € 12.69 € 25.38 € 38.07 € 50.76 € 63.45 € 253.81
Pound 4.52zł = £1 £0.22 £0.44 £0.66 £0.88 £1.11 £1.33 £1.55 £1.77 £1.99 £2.21 £4.42 £11.06 £22.12 £33.19 £44.25 £55.31 £221.24
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Basic pronunciation of consonants ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started. Civilities cześć dzień dobry dobry wieczór dobranoc tak nie proszę na zdrowie dziękuje przepraszam kocham cię Mam na imię Jestem z Anglii
(cheshch) (jen do-bri)
hi/bye good morning/ afternoon (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening (dobrah-nots) good night (tahk) yes (nyeh) no (prosheh) please (nah zdrovyeh) cheers (jen-koo-yeh) thank you (psheh-prasham) sorry (koham tshe) I love you (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee po angielsku? pan/panee po angyelskoo?) Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po polsku polskoo) Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch) Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?) Jedno piwo (yedno peevo pohpoproszę prosheh)
Where are the toilets? Do you (male/female) speak English? I don’t speak Polish Please write it down Can I smoke here? One beer please
Numbers 1 2 3 10
jeden dwa trzy dziesięć
General Airport Train station Bus station Right/left One ticket to First/second class
lotnisko dworzec pkp dworzec pks prawo/lewo jeden bilet do pierwsza/druga klasa
yehden dva tshi jayshench
June - July 2011
CULTURE & EVENTS With around 30 theatres and 60 cinemas, Warsaw is undoubtedly the cultural centre of Poland. These are supplemented by a myriad of festivals as diverse as the Chopin, Jewish Culture and the Warsaw International Film Festival. The city’s skyline, until recent shiny-squeaky additions, was long dominated by the spendidly over the top Palace of Culture and Science with the famous Congress Hall downstairs. Over the years it has hosted everyone from Marlene Dietrich to, in 1967, the Rolling Stones. Other places definitely worth exploring include the famous club Stodoła, lots of cutting edge concerts and the like, as well as the Palladium for more of a cabaret type evening.
Art galleries Klima Bocheńska’s Gallery (Galeria Klimy
Bocheńskiej) H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48) 601 71 35 11, www.bochenskagallery.pl.Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Projekt Kordegarda C-3, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 01 36, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl. Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 827 58 54, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free.
Cinemas Musical Landscapes of Czesław Miłosz 26.06 Sunday
Musical Landscapes of Czesław Miłosz Witold Lutosławski Concert Studio, ul. Modzelewskiego 59. Taking place just a few days before 100th anniversary of the birth of Czesław Miłosz, this concert is entitled ‘Musical Landscapes of Czesław Miłosz’ is a premiere concert of compositions by respected Polish composers. There will be songs, accompanied by a chamber orchestra, based on the poet’s poems and instrumental compositions inspired by the life and works of the Nobel prize winner. The jubilee compositions were written by Romual Twardowski, Joanna Bruzdowicz, Marek Żebrowski, Ryszard Osada, Jarosław Siwiński and Barbara Kaszuba. The artists come from all over the musical spectrum and the pieces will be an interesting mix. The performers are Jarosław Bręk (baritone) and orchestra Warsaw Camerata directed by Paweł Kos-Nowicki. Before the concert starts at 19.00, there’s an additional event at 17:30 in the form of a panel meeting with the composers, where you will have the chance to find out about their inspiration and how the poetry of Milosz has influenced them. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 10/15zł. Available before the concert.
Cinema 5D Extreme (Kino 5D Extreme) Fort Wola, ul. Połczyńska 4 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 498 66 77.Q Tickets 10-20zł. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Kino.Lab G-4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej), ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.QTickets 10-12zł. Box office open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open 30 minutes before the showtime. Luna F-4, ul. Marszałkowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621 78 28, www.kinoluna.pl.QBox office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 7-18zł. Multikino Złote Tarasy A-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60 (Ursynów). Q Box office open from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 14-33zł. Orange IMAX ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 21-33zł.
Cultural Centres History Meeting House (Dom Spotkań z Historią) C-2, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48) 22 255 05 05, www.dsh. waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts (Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul. Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 39 62, www.mckis. waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/ CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Współczesnej Zamek Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS Opera Stages Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki - Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00- 19:00. Closed from July 7. Tickets 20-130zł.
Philharmonics National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa) B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www. filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 20-90zł.
Theatre Stages National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Closed from July. Tickets 25-90zł. Och-Theatre ul. Grójecka 65 (Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 589 52 01, www.ochteatr.com.pl. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25-120zł. Sabat Theatre (Teatr Sabat) B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 23 55 ext. 20, www.teatr-sabat.pl.Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Closed from July 10. Tickets 90-240zł. Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza Łomnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:0019:00. Closed from July 17. Tickets 18-60zł.
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89 98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Closed from June 23. Tickets 35-170zł.
05.08.2011 8.00 pm
ERGO ARENA, Gdansk/Sopot
Warsaw Chamber Opera Warsaw Chamber Opera (Warszawska Opera Kameralna) A-1, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna. pl. The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and Artistic Director ever since. The company’s inaugural production, performed on the 4th September 1961, was Pergolesi’s La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes to the acoustic sound created. The big news is that this year sees the Opera celebrating its 50th birthday. From September onwards there will be lots of special events to look forward to, watch this space. First up will be a very important festival of contemporary opera. July will see the opera spreading its wings and staging shows away from home as it were. Indeed, they were the first company to stage an opera in Oman, recently performing Mozart’s Finta Giardiniera in Muscat. At present the Warsaw Chamber Opera consists of two directors, two designers, seven conductors, over 75 soloists, and two small-size symphony orchestras. It also has the period-instruments ensemble Musicae Antiquae Collegium Varsoviense, a Mime Group and the 40-strong Chamber Choir. The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary composers. The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber Opera established the Research and Documentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research, publication, per formance and recording of newlydiscovered works by Polish composers.QBox office open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 20-130zł.
15.06 Wednesday - 26.07 Tuesday
XXI Mozart Festival
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Erykah Badu warsaw.inyourpocket.com
A-2, Warsaw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40, www.operakameralna. pl. If you are a fan of classical music and planning a visit to Warsaw in June or July, you could do a lot worse than check out this year’s Mozart festival. Part of the Warsaw’s cultural landscape since 1991, the 200th anniversary of the composer’s death, apparently it’s the one festival in the world to bring together all twenty of Mozart’s operas. Fans will also be treated to oratorios, symphonies, concertos, ballet and a few other works. Mainly taking place in the WCA building, there will also be events in the Royal Castle, B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, pro evolution soccer 5 completo br well as chamber concerts in Wilanów Palace, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16 (Wilanów Palace) and Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1. Q Full schedule available at www.operakameralna.pl. Tickets 30-120zł. Available at Warsaw Chamber Opera’s box office (Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire).
June - July 2011
CULTURE & EVENTS break came in 1965 when he replaced Clapton in the Yarbirds. He left the band after two years to form The Jeff Beck Group along with Rod Stewart and Ron Wood. Active on and off for years, he slowly disappeared from the scene, but came back in 1999 with the album Who Else! mixing rock with techno and that style has remained with him since. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 50-300zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Carlos Santana H-4, Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3. Grammy winning Carlos Augusto Alves Santana brings his blend of salsa, rock, blues and jazz to Poland to promote the album Guitar Heaven…The Greatest Guitar Classics Of All Times. Named by Rolling Stone as the 15th best guitarist of all time, this promises to be a great night out for old timers and with 3 zł from each ticket sold going to the Milagro foundation that Santana started with his wife, feel good about yourself too as well as have a good time. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 165-365zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Mazovia in the Crown - Ode to Joy Dłużew, Manor house. Mazovia in the Crown is a series of concerts set in the finest in medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture that the region has to offer. This particular concert happens in a manor house in the village of Dłużew, 50km from Warsaw. It includes pieces by Bach, Handel, Chopin, Mozart, Verdi and Beethoven performed by the Varsovia Brass Quintet. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free.
Concerts 15.06 Wednesday
Ringo Starr and his All Star Band B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert. com/pl. Ringo formed his ‘All Star Band’ in 1989, but for every tour he takes different musicians. This time he’s on the road with Edgar Winter, Gary Wright, Rick Derringer, Richard Page (Mr. Mister), Wally Palmar (Romantics) and Gregg Bissonette. As all Beatles fans can tell you, Lennon and McCartney tried to write one song suitable for Ringo’s vocal skills resulting in Yellow Submarine and With Little Help of My Friends, so expect Ringo on the mike for a while. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 200-750zł.
Roxette Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6a, www.livenation.pl. The dynamic duo, Marie Fredriksson and Per Gessle, are back after the vocalist’s battle with cancer. It’s all a bit of a, very pleasant, surprise: about a year ago Gessle said he thought they’d never tour and record again. This albums concert is part of a tour taking in four continents which kicked off in glamourous Kazan and will be about show casing the new album. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 121-679zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Jeff Beck B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. One of the truly grand not-so-old men of rock will play as part of the Warsaw Jazz Days festival. Beck became interested in jazz at a very young age and soon was working as a session musician. His big
Warsaw In Your Pocket
Bonnie Tyler B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert. com. Welsh songstress Bonnie Tyler turns 50 this year, wow. This is the only Polish gig on the tour so if you want to hear Total Eclipse of the Heart, or Holding Out for a Hero, this is your only chance.QConcert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90-310zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
La Playa in Warsaw La Playa in Warsaw ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl. The La Playa Music Bar has been opened for the 6th time and the good news is that it’s for the whole summer. Offering a combination of a unique music club, situated at the Vistula riverside, its’ an attractive alternative place if you’re in the capital this summer. It offers possibility to spend time outside, play beachball, frisbee and badminton tournaments, use the skimboard track or just chill out on a deck chair. So give yourself a day off at the beach, relax with a drink and listen to chillout music and take in the view of the old town over the river. There’s club music every evening with Polish DJs and world stars like LTJ Bukem on June 22nd. On June 4th there’s a skimboard competition. Meanwhile on July 16th there’s the fourth edition of the Samba Festival. Every Sunday at 16:00 the club invites us for ‘Fiesta en La Playa’ - a dance party with Cuban salsa, LA Mambo and a mix of bachata and Kizomba. It’s easy to get there too - if your on the old town side of the Vistula, just use the ‘Pliszka’ ferry crossing the river.
CULTURE & EVENTS 24.07 Sunday
Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club feat. Omara Portuondo B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert. com/pl. A must for any fan of the music from the film. A lot of the original stars, Gonzales and Ferrer, are no longer with us, but all those performing here played at the self-same club and the atmosphere and music are sure to be electric. The vocalist for tonight will be Latin Music Grammy winner, Omara Portuondo. Along with the mighty Compay Segundo he sung one of BVSC’s most recognisable songs Veinte años. Knock out. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 100-300zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Exhibitions 29.11 Monday 2010 - 29.10 Saturday 2011
Man - Extraordinary Evolution B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1. An exhibition at Gallery ‘30’ which is, hey hey, on 30th floor of the Palace of Culture and Science. It’s fun science with lots of 3D animations, presenting our ancestors, reconstructed skulls, bones and skeletons. There are drawings and notes from books by Darwin and Wallace as well as photographs and live zoological exhibits like iguanas, various types of frogs and insects. Cool. Q Admission 20/15zł. Group ticket for more than 10 people 12zł per person. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
01.05 Sunday 2011 - 30.04 Monday 2012
Contemporary Art Exhibition D-7, Novotel Garden Gallery, Novotel Warszawa Airport, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1, tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00. This will be the second contemporary sculpture exhibition organised in the garden of the Novotel Airport hotel, in cooperation with the Warsaw branch of The Association of Polish Artists (ZPAP). There will be over 50 works by 33 artists including Magda Abakanowicz, Zbigniew Maleszewski, Gustaw Zemła on show. In the evening the pieces will be illuminated and hotel guests can visit the exhibition even after 9pm if they ask reception. Q Admission free. Open 06:00 - 21:00.
Sunday Chopin Concerts
14.05 Saturday - 14.08 Sunday
Medieval Treasure Troves of Greater Poland A-2, The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum, ul. Długa 52, tel. (+48) 22 504 48 00, www.pma.pl. When this exhibition was previously presented in Legnica it was such a success that the Archaeological Museum decided to bring it to the capital. It contains over 2000 medieval exhibits, mostly coins from the collections of dozens of Polish museums. Q Admission 10/5zł, Sun free. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri.
Festivals 10.06 Friday
Sonisphere Festival Bemowo Airport, ul. Powstańców Śląskich, www.sonispherefestivals.com. The 2nd Polish Sonisphere Festival won’t disappoint metalheads. After last year’s Yank fest which included Metallica, Megadeath, Slayer and Anthrax, this year sees metal bringing it all back home in the shape of Iron Maiden and Motorhead - “Don’t forget the Joker!”. Mastodon will be opening proceedings and the bill is filling up with Hunter, Killing Joke, Volbeat and Made of Hate recently confirmed. Q Tickets 198-880zł. Available at www. eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Sunday Chopin Concerts in Royal Łazienki Park G-4, Royal Lazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1, www. estrada.com.pl. Great pianists from all over the world have been coming to The Royal Łazienki Park to perform Chopin every year since 1959 - so it’s deep in the cultural tradition of the capital city. The Fryderyk Chopin Society contracts pianists for the whole season and this year includes names like Lidia GrytychtołównaPaolo Vairo, Louis Alvanis, Joanna Różewska, Eduard Stan, Joanna Michna, Rinko Kobayashi, Karol Radziwonowicz, Filip Wojciechowski, Joanna Ławrynowicz and Marek Bracha There are two concerts in the shadow of the Chopin monument, the first at 12.00, the second at 16.00 each with an audience of 4000 people. The season of concerts starts in the middle of May and lasts till the end of September. Q Concerts take place every Sun at 12:00 and 16:00. Admission free.
June - July 2011
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA Managing and Artistic Director
Stefan Sutkowsk i
THE TWENTY-FIRST MOZART FESTIVAL IN WARSAW 15 June – 26 July 2011 (Advance)sales and reservations: Warsaw Chamber Opera Box Office, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. 22 831 22 40, [email protected] open Mon.–Fri. 9.00 a.m.–7.00 p.m. & Sat.–Sun. 4.00 p.m.–7.00 p.m. www.bilety.operakameralna.pl Warsaw Chamber Opera is financed by
MAZOVIA VOIVODESHIP GOVERNMENT
Co-organiser of the Festival
1961 G. B. PERGOLESI – LA SERVA PADRONA 1962 T. BAIRD – SONETY MIŁOSNE I PIEŚNI TRUWERÓW 1963 J. HAYDN – LO SPEZIALE • ANONIM – AMFITRYJON POLSKI, CZYLI ODPRAWA BOGÓW GRECKICH • G. C. MENOTTI – TELEFON, CZYLI MIŁOŚĆ WE TROJE 1964 K. KURPIŃSKI – SZARLATAN, CZYLI WSKRZESZENIE UMARŁYCH 1966 G. P. TELEMANN – PIMPINONE 1967 W. A. MOZART – BASTIEN UND BASTIENNE 1968 D. CIMAROSA – IL MAESTRO DI CAPELLA 1969 R. JANUSZKIEWICZ – PARNASSUS REFORMOWANY, CZYLI APOLLO PRAWODAWCA 1971 G. PAISIELLO – LA SERVA PADRONA • ANONIM – MISTERIUM MĘKI CZŁOWIECZEJ • BERNARDINI-M. DI CAPUA – LE NOZZE DI AMORE E PSICHE 1972 • S. MONIUSZKO – KARMANIOLA, CZYLI OD SASA DO LASA • M. RIMSKI-KORSAKOW – MOZART I SALIERI 1973 J. MAKSYMIUK – IN MEDIO VERO OMNIUM RESIDET SOL • G. DONIZETTI – DON PASQUALE 1974 ANONIM – GRA O HERODZIE 1975 A. BLOCH – Z GWIAZDĄ W CUDOBUDZIE • G. M. ORLANDINI – GRACZ • M. KAMIEŃSKI – TRADYCJA DOWCIPEM ZAŁATWIONA • J. ELSNER – ECHO W LESIE • A. BLOCH – ZWIERCIADŁO • G. B. PERGOLESI – IL MAESTRO DI MUSICA • W. A. MOZART – COSÌ FAN TUTTE 1976 W. A. MOZART – LA FINTA GIARDINIERA • J. MAKSYMIUK – POZA SŁOWAMI • J. OFFENBACH – DWAJ ŚLEPCY, ZARĘCZYNY PRZY LATARNIACH, SALON PANA CHOUFLEURI • M. KAMIEŃSKI – SŁOWIK, CZYLI KASIA Z HANIĄ NA WYDANIU; NĘDZA USZCZĘŚLIWIONA • K. KURPIŃSKI – KALMORA 1977 F. X. BRIXI – LURIDI SCHOLARES – ERAT UNUM CANTOR BONUS • G. F. HAENDEL – ARIANNA • A. BLOCH – GŁOS MILCZENIA • J. HAYDN – DIE ERWÄHLUNG EINES KAPELLMEISTERS 1978 G. PASQUA – LA SERVANTE MAITRESSE • G. B. CIMADORO – PIGMALION • G. PAISIELLO – IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA • B. MATUSZCZAK – PAMIĘTNIK WARIATA • G. B. PERGOLESI – IL GELOSO SCHERNITO 1979 G. ROSSINI – IL SIGNOR BRUSCHINO • E. SIKORA – TWARZĄ KU NIEBU; ARIADNA • J. HAYDN – LA CANTERINA • D. SCARLATTI – TETIDE IN SCIRO • H. STUPPNER – TOTENTANZ 1980 D. CIMAROSA – L’IMPRESARIO IN ANGUSTIE • J. A. HASSE – DON TABARANO E SCINTILLA 1981 ANONIM – GRA O MĘCE I ZMARTWYCHWSTANIU • K. KURPIŃSKI – MARS I FLORA • A. SCARLATTI – SCENE BUFFE 1982 J. HAYDN – L’ISOLA DISABITATA • G. PAISIELLO – LE DUE CONTESSE 1983 ANONIM – O ZORZO ZAWDY JASNA • T. JOHNSON – THE FOUR NOTE OPERA • M. KAMIEŃSKI – KANTATA NA DZIEŃ INAUGURACYI STATUI KRÓLA JANA III • D. CIMAROSA – IL MATRIMONIO SEGRETO 1984 C. DITTERS VON DITTERSDORF – DOCTOR UND APOTHEKER • S. PROKOFIEW – PIOTRUŚ I WILK • C. SAINT-SAËNS – KARNAWAŁ ZWIERZĄT • W. A. MOZART – LE NOZZE DI FIGARO • S. MONIUSZKO – HALKA 1985 M. BUCCI – SWEET BETSY FROM PIKE • A. SERGE – OPOWIEŚĆ O STRASZLIWYM SMOKU TARASQUE • S. LANDI – IL SANT” ALESSIO 1986 G. P. TELEMANN – DON KICHOT • W. A. MOZART – PANTALONE E COLOMBINA • B. MATUSZCZAK – PROMETEUSZ 1987 ANONIM – CANTIGAS DE SANTA MARIA • W. A. MOZART – DIE ZAUBERFLÖTE 1988 K. MAJER – ŻÓŁTA SZLAFMYCA • W. A. MOZART – ZAIDE • W. A. MOZART – SERENATA NOTTURNA, GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM 1989 J. PERI – EURIDICE • W. A. MOZART – DIE ENTFÜHRUNG AUS DEM SERAIL • W. A. MOZART – BETULIA LIBERATA • W. A. MOZART – LA FINTA SEMPLICE 1990 W. A. MOZART – APOLLO ET HYACINTHUS • W. A. MOZART – DIE SCHULDIGKEIT DES ERSTEN GEBOTS • W. A. MOZART – LA CLEMENZA DI TITO • W. A. MOZART – LA FINTA GIARDINIERA • W. A. MOZART – LO SPOSO DELUSO, DER SCHAUSPIELDIREKTOR, L’OCA DEL CAIRO • W. A. MOZART – ASCANIO IN ALBA • W. A. MOZART – IL SOGNO DI SCIPIONE • W. A. MOZART – IL RE PASTORE 1991 W. A. MOZART – MITRIDATE, RE DI PONTO • W. A. MOZART – IL DISSOLUTO PUNITO OSSIA IL DON GIOVANNI • W. A. MOZART – LUCIO SILLA • W. A. MOZART – THAMOS • W. A. MOZART – IDOMENEO, RE DI CRETA • W. A. MOZART – D. O. M. – KYRIE, GRABMUSIK, DAVIDE PENITENTE • W. A. MOZART – GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM, LES PETITS RIENS 1992 G. ROSSINI – LA SCALA DI SETA 1993 C. MONTEVERDI – 3 MADRIGALI, IL COMBATTIMENTO DI TANCREDI E CLORINDA, BALLO DELLE INGRATE • C. MONTEVERDI – L’ORFEO • J. BLOW – VENUS AND ADONIS 1994 G. F. HAENDEL – MESSIAH • C. MONTEVERDI – IL RITORNO D’ULISSE IN PATRIA 1995 B. GALUPPI – L’AMANTE DI TUTTE • H. PURCELL – DIDO AND ÆNEAS • T. MERULA – SATIRO E CORISCA; CANZONI E BALLI 1996 F. CACCINI – LA LIBERAZIONE DI RUGGIERO DALL’ISOLA D’ALCINA • C. MONTEVERDI – L’INCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA • C. MONTEVERDI – BALLO DELLE INGRATE • B. MATUSZCZAK – QUO VADIS 1997 G. ROSSINI – LA CENERENTOLA • J.-B. LULLY – ALCESTE 1998 G. ROSSINI – LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO • G. ROSSINI – L’ITALIANA IN ALGERI • G. F. HAENDEL – IMENEO • G. ROSSINI – ROSSINIADA 1999 C. MONTEVERDI – VESPRO DELLA BEATA VERGINE • J. A. HASSE – ZENOBIA 2000 O. VECCHI – L’AMFIPARNASO • J. PERI – EURIDICE • A. CAMPRA – TANCRÉDE • D. SCARLATTI – TETIDE IN SCIRO 2001 G. F. HAENDEL – RINALDO • G. ROSSINI – LA GAZZA LADRA • Z. KRAUZE – BALTHAZAR • Z. RUDZIŃSKI – ANTYGONA 2002 P. CZAJKOWSKI – EUGENIUSZ ONIEGIN • G. DONIZETTI – L’ELISIR D’AMORE 2003 G. VERDI – FALSTAFF • G. ROSSINI – SEMIRAMIDE 2004 L. JANÁČEK – JENŮFA 2005 V. ULLMANN – DER KAISER VON ATLANTIS 2006 W. A. MOZART – AZIONE TEATRALE W. A. MOZART – BALET DWORSKI 2007 K. KURPIŃSKI – HENRYK VI NA ŁOWACH • M. PIGNOLET DE MONTECLAIR – JEPHTÉ • G. VERDI – UN GIORNO DI REGNO • C. MARIA VON WEBER – DER FREISCHÜTZ 2008 B. MATUSZCZAK – ZBRODNIA I KARA 2009 B. MATUSZCZAK – PROMETEUSZ • J. KOFFLER – MATRIMONIO CON VARIAZIONI • B. GALUPPI – IL FILOSOFO DI CAMPAGNA 2010 B. BRITTEN – THE BURNING FIERY FURNACE • I. STRAWIŃSKI – THE RAKE'S PROGRESS • Z. KRAUZE – POLIEUKT 2011 F. POULENC – LA VOIX HUMAINE • E. PAŁŁASZ – JA, KAIN
Stefan Sutkowski WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
12 September 1961 – 12 September 2011
CULTURE & EVENTS Street Art Festival 01.07 Friday - 05.07 Tuesday
Street Art Festival www.sztukaulicy.pl. This will be the 14th time out for this splendid festival which deals with all forms of street art. After the fall of communism life in Poland literally came out from homes onto the streets; new pubs, restaurants and shops started to appear and it could be said that the function of public space changed, becoming more important to ever y Varsovian’s life. During the festival artists come to Warsaw from al over the world, and take over the town and fill the streets, parks and passages of Warsaw with a varied programme. There will be six days packed with street and outdoor performances, so why not come and see what’s on offer and encounter a wide variety of theatrical fare including dance, music, circus, as well as film. In addition there are installations, ‘happenings’ and other performances that interact with aspects of the city’s architecture and infrastructure, making use of using tunnels, bus and tram stops, underground stations and markets. It’s all about making the art part of the landscape and getting us all involved. The programme is packed and varied and we have highlighted the following:
17.06 Friday - 18.06 Saturday
Orange Warsaw Festival H - 4, Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3, www. orangewarsawfestival.pl. Organised for the third time, this event is in aid of Warsaw’s European Capital of Culture bid. Previous editions saw stars like MGMT, Nelly Furtado, White Lies, Calvin Harris, Groove Armada and N.E.R.D. This year the announcement of blast from the past Skunk Anansie got the ball rolling followed by news that Moby, Plan B, The Streets and Jamiroquai have also been confirmed. If the gossip is true, the list of world stars won’t end there. Q Tickets 49-99zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Złota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
17.06 Friday - 22.06 Wednesday
Warsaw Summer Jazz Days www.adamiakjazz.pl. One of the most popular festivals in Warsaw, this jazz celebration is a three-day affair. Organised every year since 1992 thanks to Mariusz Adamiak, it combines an opening gala and two days of free concerts with three days of big-name concerts at the Congress Hall. The opening takes place on Hoover Square, B-2, Krakowskie Przedmieście 58/60 at 19:00. The next two days of free concerts at Hoover’s Square start at 19:00. The Congress hall gigs start at 19:30. and Monday’s stars are the Nublu Orchestra and The Bitches Brew. Tuesday sees a concert by the venerable Jeff Beck. Proceedings will finish with concerts by Avishai Cohen and Cassandra Wilson. Q Full schedule available at www.adamiakjazz.pl. Tickets 50-300zł. Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).